Saturday, May 10, 2014

DZONGS of BHUTAN








THE ONE MOST OF US SEE FIRST IS IN PARO.


Let me begin by explaining that I am no expert on this topic but I do have an enduring fascination with these symbolic and spectacular structures, which dot the landscape across Bhutan and often take one’s breath away with their whimsical appearance in the most unlikely of settings. I never seem to tire of seeing them or exploring their interior courtyards.




Basically a Dzong is translated as a fortress and they do have an almost fairytale castle look about them. Most are ancient structures built in imposing locations high on ridges, overlooking valleys and dominating the surrounding landscape. 










HAA BORDERING TIBET HAS HAD ITS DZONG PURLOINED FOR ALTERNATIVE PURPOSES, BUT A NEW ONE IS UNDER CONSTRUCTION


Many if not all, were constructed of wood, stones and rammed earth in the 17th century. The inside of each, is as distinctive as the exterior and the location in which it has been placed. There are similarities, which make even a novice like me certain of when I am looking at one or the ruins of one. There are courtyards and three storied towers, high walls and intricately carved and painted woodwork and steep ladder-like stairs with banisters smooth as silk with a shining patina created by the thousand of hands that have slid over them for centuries. To stand inside one for the first time is a magical moment. 


TRASHI-YANGSTE'S NEW RELPICA STANDS ABOVE THE TOWN LIKE A PROTECTIVE SENTINEL

Even those newly constructed have been created to duplicate the best of the ancient fortresses.






THE ONE WITH WHICH WE ARE MOST FAMILAR DUE TO OUR TIME IN RANGJUNG IS TRASHIGANG

As the centres of government administration in each district, they play an essential role in the lives of the local people but they also house bodies of monks and are places of deeply religious significance. They signify the unification of the Kingdom of Bhutan and are a tribute to the mastery and ingenuity of the trade’s people of ancient times. Bhutanese need no reminder that they must adhere to strict dress codes and rigid protocol and etiquette are essential within these hallowed walls.  They come to life during the festivals and Tshechu and teem with people throughout the year.




 WHAT REMAINS OF THE ONCE MAGNIFICENT WANGDUEPHODRANG DZONG

When the Wangdue Phodrang Dzong tragically burned in 2012 there was no loss of life and the monks living within the compound managed to flee down the steep cliff face carrying the ancient treasures once housed within, but the nation mourned. In every remote corner of the kingdom prayers were chanted and blessings sought and solace derived from participation in these consoling rituals and prayer. 



JAKAR THE HEARLAND OF BHUTANESE CULTURE

Even those of us who had seen the dzong only once or twice crossing the country felt the loss and I still feel a lump rise in my throat every time I sight those ruins on the ridge above Bajo town. Like all Bhutanese, one immediately comforts oneself with the thought that in the not too distant future it will be painstakingly resorted and rebuilt and to the untrained eye it will not be at all obvious that the original was destroyed.  





 IN TRONGSA THE ONE I PERSONALLY BELIEVE HAS THE MOST SPECTACULAR LOACATION


We feel privileged to have been able to see so many of these ancient monuments and at different times, festivals, seasons and even historic moments. This is a photographic showcase of the stunning architecture, of what I consider to be Bhutan’s most distinctive manmade structure. 






PUNAKHA THE "PIECE DE RESISTANCE" IN ITS MOST SPECTACULAR SEASON 

I was inspired to compile it, by being able to visit the Semtokha Dzong today. Having driven by it thinking we must go there, so many times in the past, now seemed the right time, given that yesterday’s public holiday was to honour Zhabdrung Ngawang Namyal, who unified Bhutan and built this, the first of its Dzongs in 1629.









THE HISTORIC FIRST EVER DZONG OF BHUTAN IN SEMTOKHA

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